Among the several incidence I walked upon the unroofed rooms of ruinings of Nalanda University, the one I can recall most vividly take me more than a dozen year back. As the complex of ruined university is close to a small village, Bargaon, whose Sun Temple and believed-to-be a holy lake call thousands of devotees from all over the state, for persons living in nearby districts of Nalanda, Chatth Puja (one of the most widely celebrated festivals in Bihar) is perhaps the only time to take an excursion walk inside the ruined architectural complex of Nalanda University, which once was what Oxford, MIT, LSB and Kellogg are today.
While ascending to its one of 9-storey ruined complex (which costs hundreds of your steps), I heard some boorish ladies, the illiterate intellectuals, discussing the heartbreaking fact that the library of the university complex had had so many books that “Its ashes kept burning for six months” (read the intellectual statement carefully). The another lady spoke more in boasting manner, “the college had 10,000 students and some 2,000 teachers who came from different locations of the world.” Being a child unable to make out how long the duration of six months is and how big the figure of 10,000 would be, I tried to wonder as hard as I could while imagining scenes like heaps of books put on fire, and thousands of head-shaven men walking here and there.
Return today's date. To tell you the truth (unfortunately, as usual, I have got only gruelling truth to share), heaps of books containing thousands of rare texts, and the entire university complex, the unique architectural gem, was ordered to be ruined completely merely because the entire university did not have a single piece of Quran, the holy Islamic text. The place which was an excellent place of excellent learning for seven centuries (5th-12th century) was finally set on fire following the order of (Turkic) Muslim invader, Bakhtiyar Khilji in 1193.
The place today has no grandeur to boast of. Once upon a time, the grandeur was there, but that is gone now, not to return ever. Excavated during 1915-1930, the complex spreads today merely over 14 hectares, where several of hostels, temples, monasteries, stupas, lecture halls have been identified. Imagine the magnificence of the university complex; the number of monasteries inside the university complex touched the impressive figure of 108, among which 11 have been excavated.
Today, the total area of entire devastated university may not be so large that it may take you one full day to explore it. Yet, beholding each of its lofty and magnificent walls made of red brick give you same joy what you get while roaming in its museum containing many of rare Hindu and Buddhist gods, several of large clay-vessels, copper plates, coins and carved bricks.
The last time I witnessed the place some 4 years back, when I drove past without feeling any need to get off the vehicle and take a stroll in the complex. I felt, the place, as it is for more than a thousand year, was in lull. The only commotion I could make out was caused by blowing wind; which came now-and-then close to my ear whispering the fact “did you know that the great scholar, Hieun Tsang - 'Master Of The Law', studied here, and spent his 17 years here?”
Now-a-days the news is that the place in next two years is going to have some part of the all those glory back which it lost a thousand year ago not only because that it was devastated by a Muslim invader, but also due to the fact that corruption in many forms clutched the university too tight to loosen. As the news state, by 2009 the place will have a world class university spread over 21 square km. Even an art village is also being set-up over an area of 64 acres which will include an open air theatre having special facility of performing arts. The university which in its hey-days got patronage from great royal houses like Pala and Gupta, today Asian countries like China, Singapore and India will take over the financial matters. Planning to offers post graduate level studies, the world class university will have students from all over Asia.
The news, if becomes reality, appears to be a boon for the local villages and its inhabitants, who despite producing dozens of IAS and IPS officers every year, suffer through a disease called backwardness. Right now, by the time I finish typing my last word, I am going to be completely wet with a vision that after a couple of year when I pass through the complex, I want a thorough craving inside me – craving to roam through each of its newly built magnificent pillars and study halls, craving to eye thousands of books befitting in its grand library, craving to see thousands of head-shaven Buddhist scholars roaming here and there the same way they stirred a thousand year back.
